Re: Howl-o-ween

Werewolf T-Shirt Craftster

Jilltheimpossible shows off her newly stencilled werewolf T-shirt (Craftster). She didn’t make up the quote, but she did do the shirt.

Werewolves don’t get no respect–and they don’t get any decent costumes either. Think about it.  Vampires get the all the press, the babes, and the smart yet brooding outfits. Werewolves are lucky to get second billing, if they get any billing at all, and they almost never get an attractive transformation sequence.

Let’s face it. Most werewolf costumes are just plain unattractive and clunky-looking. They don’t say “scary yet sexy wolfperson” as much as they say “I got too near a vat of latex” or “sorry, I seem to have an unfortunate body hair problem”.

This Halloween I would like to challenge all the costumers out there to reinvent the werewolf for the 21st century. The first step is to see werewolves for what they are–cool shapeshifters, not  some demon or ungainly man-wolf hybrid.

With that in mind, let’s take a fresh look at werewolf costumes. Below are a couple of looks I like.

Werewolf Costume 1987 brykmantra

Dashing young werewolf about town  Brykmantra won several local costume contests with this 1987 wolfman costume. He improved on the look by lightening up on the brown face paint and layering the hair. (Flickr)

The enterprising Brykmantra kicks it old school by going with a classic wolfman interpretation–basically a suit with facepaint and a little extra body hair. Comfortable and–dare I say it?–tasteful, too. You could make this look more working class by dressing down–jeans and a T-shirt or long-sleeved flannel shirt. Think Wolverine from the X-men movies.

Werewolf Costume Simplicity Flickr

His night to howl. An unnamed gentleman models the Simplicity werewolf costume at Costume Con 27 in Maryland (2009). Posted by oldpatterns on Flickr.

The Simplicity option is a good one if you expect to be trekking around in nippy Halloween weather or if you prefer not to do heavy makeup. Basically, the outfit consists of a furry hood with ears, clawed gloves, and a sculpted chest protector-type vest that ties around the neck and at the waist.

Werewolf Costume Simplicity Flickr II

Same model with coat off showing the back of the Simplicity werewolf vest (Costume Con 27, 2009, Maryland). As you can see, a coat or overshirt is necessary to cover up this part of the costume.

Werewolf Costume Simplicity Flickr III

Call of the wild.  Designer Andrea Schewe poses with her creation (Costume Con 27, 2009, Maryland). Posted by oldpatterns on Flickr.

Werewolf Makeup I Flickr ktb8293

Flickr user ktb8293 posted this photo of her great werewolf makeup.

Another idea is to go with animal facepaint. I like that ktb8293 completely relies on makeup, not fake fur or fangs, to give her a “wolven” expression.

Werewolf Makeup II Flickr ktb8293

A close up of ktb8293’s werewolf face paint (Flickr).

Werewolf Mask Closeup Kory Bing Flickr

Kory Bing constructed this great werewolf mask from paper mache, ribbon, and rabbit fur for Halloween 2004. The design is based on the story, “The Wolves of St. August”, from the Hellboy comic by Mike Mignola (Flickr).

If you don’t like the full face makeup idea, a classic, lightweight, animal face, masquerade mask is a great option. I like that Kory has gone for a realistic “wolf” look here and eschewed (no pun intended) the fake fur and latex snarl.

Werewolf Mask Kory Bing (Flickr)

Kory shows off her full costume (Flickr).

Two Wolf Princes

Jedi Elf Queen created this Big Bad Wolf costume for a college production of Steven Sondheim’s  musical, “Into the Woods”.

I love the fact that the wolf has pirate boots as well as a furry peruke (wig), tied back in the proper 18th century, and a furry jabot.  The clothes are made using the Simplicity pirate costume pattern. Check out Jedi Elf Queen’s pictures here. Scroll down to the bottom of the page and click on “Wolf/Pirate/Prince Costumes”. She has an especially clever “spat solution” for the swashbuckling boots.

Werewolf T-Shirt Back Craftster

The back of Jilltheimpossible’s wolf shirt. The clawmarks are a nice touch. (Craftster).

Published in: on October 28, 2009 at 12:23 am Comments (1)
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Re: My Halloween Costume Predictions

The costumes people choose at Halloween are a snapshot of the zeitgeist of that time.  Fearlessly, I look into my crystal ball and predict the following for Halloween 2009:

  • Akasha, Queen of the Damned and Heath Ledger’s Joker have lost none of their appeal judging by the number of hits on this blog.
  • Zombies and pirates will make a good showing once again.
  • Michael Jackson costumes will be popular, driven both by the Gloved One’s celebrity status and by his Halloween-themed music videos like “Thriller”.
  • With the 2008 Presidential Election over, expect a sharp drop-off in political-themed costumes. Persistent names-in-the-news Sarah Palin and Bernie Madoff may show up.
Published in: on October 20, 2009 at 12:23 am Comments (1)

Re: Piratitude

Blackbeard

Blackbeard (Edward Teach) makes his last stand in this painting by Jean Leon Gerome Ferris.

Avast here, me hearties! Aye, it be true that Talk Like a Pirate Day (Sept. 19th) has come and gone and once again we be found a-wantin’ in the piratical gear department due to a scurvy bout with the flu bug. Obviously, now that we’ve recovered and the wind is in the riggin’ so to speak, we must away to pillage yon costuming ports, but what should we be looking for?

Let’s aloft, says you, and ascertain.

Let your first stop be that den of wicked seafarers, the Gentlemen of Fortune, whom I have referred to before on these pages. In particular, I suggest checking out their Sailor Slops section (say that three times fast, especially after some grog). They talk about the clothes that a sailor re-enactor should be acquiring so let it be your guide to the costume items you should be looking for.

Burt Lancaster as Captain Vallo

Burt Lancaster as Captain Vallo in the 1950s swashbuckler, “The Crimson Pirate”, still and away one of my favorite pirate flicks.  You could bounce quarters off of Burt’s physique as he swings through the rigging showing off the skills he acquired as a circus acrobat.

The second question for professional pirates is do you want to be a realistic pirate or a fantasy pirate? Both are good–and a little mixing never  hurts—but you need to understand the guidelines.

Barbary Pirates

The caption reads “Decatur Boarding the Tripolitan Gunboat”, painting by Dennis Malone Carter. The painting depicts Lt. Stephen Decatur of the newly minted U. S. Navy going mano-a-mano with Barbary (Berber) pirates in either the first or second Barbary War. Barbary pirates were located in North Africa (you can see that some of them are wearing Algerian dress) and made it a habit to seize luckless crews and passengers, either holding them for ransom or selling them as slaves.

There’s nothing like a little historical research to set you on your way which brings us to the third question: do you want to be a Western pirate or an Eastern pirate? Choosing a Far or Near Eastern persona opens up a whole new world of fun and exotic clothing options. If, on the other hand, you are looking to be recognized by the general, non-privateering public, you will want to stick with Western dress of the 18th century.

Once you have answered these questions you are ready to set sail on your quest for the perfect pirate costume. Let us assume for the moment that you have opted to go with the Western pirate dress. You will need the following:

  • A tricorn hat or a headscarf
  • A big peasant-style shirt. Extra ruffles say “captain”, plain cotton says “sails before the mast”. Alternately, if you’re going for that Mr. Smee look, you could wear a horizontal striped T-shirt (which says “look out for crocodiles and flying kids”, but that’s another story).
  • Knee-length pants. These can be knee breeches  or capri (cropped) pants. You can also use loose harem pants pulled up to the knee.
  • Vest (hip or mid-thigh length). Optional but useful especially if you don’t have a coat and want something to tie the outfit together.
  • Frock coat. If you’ve got one, wear it.  If not, skip it as this can be an expensive item to make or buy.
  • Belt (optional). Could be leather, a length of rope, or a sash. Should have room to stash your dueling pistols or knife. If you are carrying a sword, you will need a baldrick  (a strip of leather that goes across the chest) in order to hoster your weapon.
  • Boots or buckle shoes (critical, but difficult to find). If you have some sort of riding boot, by all means wear it. If you have short boots or shoes in a dark color, you can create a swashbuckler-type spat to go over the top of the shoe and around your calf.  The spat method is the easiest way to go if you want the look of a boot without shelling out the money for it.
  • Accessories (eyepatch, earring, parrot, treasure map, treasure chest, temporary tattoo saying “Mother”, you be the judge)

Women have the option of either dressing like men (historically accurate and more practical) or going with a “tavern wench” outfit (just add a gypsy-style skirt and a tight bodice to the above list and you’re good).

Comfortable Pirate

Now this outfit says “comfortable”. This gentleman of fortune was photographed at the Washington State Rennaisance Faire (Flickr).  He’s wearing a Turkish vest and what look to be harem pants to me.  I like the way the pants and the headscarf coordinate.

Long John Silver by Munro Orr

Long John Silver (“Treasure Island”) as envisioned by Munro Orr.  I highly recommend both the original novel by Robert Louis Stevenson and the movie version featuring Charleton Heston as Long John.

Lord Gregor (Flickr)

Long John’s near doppelganger, Lord Gregor (Flickr). Notice that Gregor has his own treasure chest carefully tied to his belt.

Commodore Wierdbeard

Captain Ashton “Weirdbeard” Syn (Flickr). I would call this look “Goth pirate”. Never be afraid to put your own personal spin on your costume. Allowing your personality to come out is what makes your character unique. And, yes, Captain Syn is a leather worker who makes all of his own gear.

Jason Isaacs as Captain Hook & Smee

If you haven’t seen the remake of “Peter Pan” with Jason Isaacs as Captain Hook, go forth and rent it immediately. The movie takes the Peter Pan story back to its roots, not as an adventure story for boys, but a coming of age story for girls. The costumes are beautifully done and Isaacs is alternately charming and scary as Captain Hook.

Seafaring Tricorn

The tricorn goes uptown with this charming, sea-themed creation by Darla Teagarden (Etsy).

Lingerie Pirate (Flickr)

A lady pirate from the 2006 Dragoncon (Flickr).  I call this look “lingerie pirate” and it is definitely a fantasy creation. Extra points to our pirate belle for finding a way to recycle her bellydance bra.

Live Pirate Parrot (Flickr)

The ultimate accessory: a live parrot. Just be sure your shirt is washable–if ye take my meanin’, matey.  Pirate and parrot were photographed at the Washington Renaissance Faire (Flickr).

Published in: on October 8, 2009 at 11:17 pm Leave a Comment

Re: I Embrace My Inner Peacock

Finally, finally, finally, it looks like my peacock costume is coming together. I found a peacock feather printed cotton at a local quilt store that I really liked (about $8.00/yd) and bought everything they had left on the bolt. I won a custom made bellydance tassel belt at a silent auction one of the local troupes put on so I’m going to have Liz, my seamstress, make part of the fabric into a belt. Depending on how much is left over, I’m thinking about having the rest made into a short-sleeved, knee-length Ghawazee jacket that I could wear over a variety of shifts.

Peacock Fabric Example

This is the exact same fabric I found at my local quilt shop, shown here made into a mouse pad. It’s a Carrie Miller print and comes in about six different colors, but I thought the kelly green background (see in photo) was the most striking. (Image from Etsy).

Right now, I’m in designer heaven, rummaging through my stash of trims and fabrics to see what goes with a kelly green peacock print. I’ve got some electric blue sequins, some gold and blue metallic trim, and some coin trim with small gold coins.

More information as the project develops down the line.

Re: No Place Like the O.Z.–The Sequel

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Zooey Deschanel as D.G. in the Sci-Fi Channel mini-series, “Tin Man”. A better shot of the Spanish-style black-over-red dress she borrows to infiltrate the nightclub.

KLCtheBookworm was kind enough to pass on to me some screencaps she had gotten from moirariordan at LiveJournal. The screencaps show some of the “Tin Man” costume details I had been unable to find other photos of.  Enjoy!

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KLC points out that D.G.’s dress seems a little big for her–a detail I had missed–but which is consistent with her borrowing it from DeMilo’s stash.

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“Search your feelings, D.G. You know it to be true.” Okay, wrong movie ….

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I thought initially that the dancers were wearing a one piece bodysuit, but they actually appear to be wearing a camisole top and high cut briefs, Las Vegas showgirl style.

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Love the little poofy sleeves. The beading around the tamborines seems to be the pre-strung beading you can find the upholstery section of large fabric stores.

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I thought that the dancers were wearing metallic caps, but these appear to be metallic scarves instead.

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A brief glimpse of the ballroom style shoes the dancers are wearing (“Tin Man”).

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“They went that away. Let’s get some horses and head them off at the pass.” Actually, a nice screencap showing that elusive insignia (“Tin Man”). See some other views below.

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Ah, a man who enjoys his work. Zero (Callum Keith Rennie) prepares to give Wyatt Cain (lower right hand corner) an attitude adjustment (“Tin Man”).

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“Just click my heels together and I’ll be back in Kansas, eh?” Zero (Callum Keith Rennie) gets up close and personal with Azakadellia’s secretary (“Tin Man”).

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The pin up of the Sorceress all of the Longcoats have in their lockers. Kathleen Robertson as Azakadellia (“Tin Man”) showing her beaded nightdress and mermaid skirt. I suspect that the nightdress is actually an Indian khameez split up the front. The skirt looks to be a simple straight skirt with a line of runching on the front.

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In a later scene, Azakadellia (Kathleen Robertson) is shown wearing a lightweight black robe over her nightwear ensemble.

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Airofday, the Indian fortune teller/informant, that our heroes meet in the Realm of the Unwanted.  Her outfit most closely resembles an Indian-influenced bellydance costume–straight skirt, costume bra, and big, metallic veil draped across her body and over her shoulder. In the movie, Airofday is part of a trio of dancers which would make this outfit a fun group costume.

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A closeup of Airofday’s makeup which we don’t really get to see during the film.  The design comes off as metallic eyeshadow on screen when it is really the outline of an open eye on her eyelid, the pupil done in metallic blue. Very cool, very freaky.

Re: What Does a Steampunk Bellydancer Wear? Part 2

arm-lace-gauntlet-tombo-designs

Stretch lace gauntlet from Tombo Designs. You know you want it.

Because Gothic and Steampunk fashion share a fondness for some of the same time periods, you would not be off base in choosing a Gothic theme for your Steampunk bellydance performance and costume. For all things gothic and bellydance-y, I highly recommend Laura Tempest Schmidt’s appropriately named Gothic Bellydance Resource. Tempest analyzes the elements of Gothic bellydance costuming, talks about Goth performance elements, has a collection of dancer images, and provides links to definitions of the Goth subculture.

My major recommendation, if you are planning to go the Gothic route, is to beware of doing an all-black costume. Remember that when the stage is dark-colored, the backdrop is dark, and the lights are down, you and your black costume are going to disappear almost entirely. Do your audience a favor and wear colors that can be seen at the back of the room. These can be “Gothic” shades like wine red or intense purple or you can go for broke and wear all white.  If you must go the “basic black” routine, consider making everything on your costume–and I mean EVERYTHING, not just your bra and belt–as shiny, sparkly, mirrored, sequinned, or LED-enhanced as humanly possibly. You want your audience to see your entire body move, not just stray patches of skin.

Up until now, I’ve been talking about essentially using other time periods as a basis for your Steampunk costume. While it can be very useful to have a prototype to work from, another–and very fun–approach is to seize upon the fantasy element of steampunk and build a costume (and a character) from entirely from scratch.

Imagine if you were living in an alternate reality and you wanted to put together a Middle Eastern dance costume, not knowing anything about what a “bellydance outfit” should look like. You would know, for example, that you wanted to highlight the movement of your hips and shoulders so the question becomes how best to do that. What kind of outfit would you construct? What materials would you use? Metal? Leather? Gears? Flattened beer caps? Washers? Bits of brass? Fringe? What would you be able to find lying about that you could cut up or reuse?

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Elizabeth James poses in her handmade, snake dance (as in dancing with an actual python) costume. Posted on her blog, Altered States.

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Costume bra decorated with washers and metal chains by Basha (Tribe.net). Nice use of diagonal lines on the cups.  She made this outfit for a goth industrial number that she did.

washer-necklace-by-basha-tribe

Matching choker by Basha (Tribe.net) crafted from washers which are wrapped and then linked together.  This design would also look good made from brass or copper. When you are a Middle Eastern dancer, a trip down the hardware aisle of your local department store can be very inspirational.

leather-bodice-steampunk-etsy

Bodice made from an old leather coat that has been cut up and re-purposed. Posted by Jazuchan on (Etsy).  Second hand leather garments have the advantage of already being broken in so they are soft and comfortable.

leather-turkish-arab-vest

The standard Turkish-Arab vest re-done in faux leather by Velvet Mechanism (Etsy).  I’ve seen similar vests made with just canvas or polyester straps in which case they are usually referred to as “harnesses”.

What I’m talking about is not just a theatrical approach to costume making, but a theatrical approach to CHARACTER building. Who is your character? Are you a dancer in a converted factory on the outskirts of town? A saloon hall entertainer in a science fiction-influenced western as portrayed in TV shows like the “Wild, Wild West” (1965) or “The Adventures of Brisco County, Jr.” (1993)? A clockwork robot? A retro-futuristic space traveler?

And what kind of music are you dancing to? Drums? Electronica? Sound effects such as the wind, spacecraft landing, etc? Trash can lids being hit with hammers?

All of these considerations are going to influence the kind of costume that you make and the kind of performance that you give. Below are a few ideas for steampunk character costumes.

barbary-coast-shakedown-2007

The dancers of Barbary Coast Shakedown (Mira Betz, left, and Elizabeth Strong, right) post in their California saloon hall girl costumes.  The granny boots add that extra panache. Posted by foca71 on (Flickr)

mira-betz-in-blue

Mira Betz again in a 1920s, jazz hall-influenced costume. She has sleeked her hair back and drawn in pincurls on her forehead with a makeup pencil. The cool hair ornaments are actually appliques that are secured to her hairdo with bobby pins. (Flickr)

robot-dance-fayzah-claudia

Fayzah Claudia as an android in a retro-futuristic space suit reminiscent of the 1920s-30s.  See more images of her body suit, complete with helmet and raygun on her website.  See clips of her performance on “Fantasy Bellydance” by World Dance New York (Fayzah appears about 1:58 in). You can also see a brief glimpse of Sarah Skinner in her Salome costume as well.

Re: What Does a Steampunk Bellydancer Wear? Part 1

The answer is “anything she wants” because the music and costume you choose as a dancer for your steampunk number really depends on how you choose to define “steampunk”. Like many other American bellydancers, I’ve been bitten by the steampunk bug and what follows is my research into how best to translate steampunk into a Middle Eastern dance context.

kathleen-crowley-ghawazee-coat-ii

Silk shantung ghawazee coat worn over paisley cotton voile undertunic. Made by Kathleen Crowley (see blog on sidebar), posted on Tribe.net. Notice how the floor length coat resembles Western dresses of the Victorian era. You could leave the accessories as is or steampunk them up, substituting washers and gears for the coins on the belt and bra, for example. Another possibility would be to go with a knee length coat worn over a full skirt with ruffled pantaloons underneath.

To start with, you could legitimately go 100% ethnic. Steampunk fashion is generally based around a Victorian/Edwardian look and the traditional costume and music of the Middle East have not changed that much in two hundred some years.  My suggestion would be to pick a Near Eastern country that Europeans of the 19th and early 20th century would be familiar with such as Egypt, Turkey, or Northern Africa and use the costume of those regions as a jumping off point.

A second approach would be to base your costume and performance on Middle Eastern dance as seen on the American stage of the late 19th and early 20th century. Thanks to the American Memory project at the Library of Congress, we have actual footage of what early dancers were wearing at the time. Here Princess Rajah balances a chair (notice that she does some floorwork as well) and  Ella Lola does a Turkish dance. You can find second hand copies of these silent films on YouTube, but I prefer to point people to the actual Library of Congress site as it has more context information.

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Princess Rajah spins during her chair balancing dance (American Memory, Library of Congress) . Although her ruffled skirt appears short, it is actually ballet-length, falling a little above her ankle.

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Ella Lola does her Turkish dance (American Memory, Library of Congress). Her knee-length skirt appears to be made of assuit.

This is the dance as it existed when it was first crossing out of the ethnic immigrant communities and onto the Western vaudeville stage. The costumes are variations on either 19th century street/stagewear. The movements are still done today and are completely recognizable to a 21st century Middle Eastern dancer.

A third possibility is to base your costume on a more Orientalist theme–the Near East as seen through Western eyes. “Salome”-style costumes were very popular on the 19th century/early 20th century stage at this time and have a fantasy element that is very in keeping with the steampunk aesthetic.

sarah-skinners-salome-bra

Sarah Skinner models her Salome-inspired bra and belt ensemble which she created for her seven veils dance.  Click here and scroll down to the June 24, 2008 entry (“Salome Costume”) for her blog post about the construction of this outfit. Follow her links at the end of the post to read more about Salome and her take on the dance of the seven veils.

Andrea Deagon, an academic and a dancer, has done research on the origins of the Salome story. Her slideshow, “The Salome Dancers: An Eastern Dance Takes Western Roots”,  which showcases a number of the images and performers of the era is available here.

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Princess Farhanna (Pleasant Gehman) posing in her turn-of-the-century bellydance costume.

Princess Farhana also created a beautiful, 1900s-era costume. She writes about making this ensemble on her blog (“Creating Flash Out of Trash, Feb. 23, 2009).  A dancer after my own heart, she used materials she already had and a lot of gold spray paint. The end result: a costume that looks expensive, but only cost $36.00. Click on the Feb. 12, 2009 photo (“It’s a Small World After All!”) for a closeup of the costume including the lace rosettes she hand-glued onto the skirt.

Other Orientalist-inspired eras to look at for costuming ideas would be Art Nouveau and Art Deco. I’ve often thought, for example, that Queen Latifah’s costume from the movie “Chicago” would make a great, 1920s-style beladi dress.

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Queen Latifah as Matron “Mama” Morton belting out “When You’re Good to Mama” from the movie musical “Chicago”. Notice the fabulous arm drapes.

Re: Happy Blogday to Me!

life-spring-hat-gordon-parks-3-03-50Photo by Gordon Parks taken March 03, 1950. From the Life Photo Archive found on the Google search engine site.

I can hardly believe it, but my little blog is one year old this month. Ah, it seems like just yesterday when I first started making the clickety-clicks on the keyboard and now here we are, still going and still growing.
Time for a little housekeeping. As you may recollect, I ran an entry on Fashion in Politics in which I made mention of the Sarah Palin wardrobe scandal that garnered a lot of airtime during this past presidential election. According to Ken Vogel of Politico.com, the final auditing has been done and Republican National Committee has disclosed that it paid $173,000 for clothes for Palin and her family. No followup on what happened to the outfits afterward. The total was $23,000 less than initially thought, but that’s still a freakin’ great wad of cash. No word on whether any jobs were created by the RNC “stimulus spending”.

Here are some cool costume items that don’t fall into a overall category, but which I was very taken with, nevertheless:

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Star Trek corset by EveningArwen, posted on Etsy.com. Follow this link to see other photos of this great costume piece.

red-rose-coat

This fabulous Red Rose coat was made by ejacqui and posted on Craftster.org. Follow this link to see other photos and read more about the construction. She actually made all those roses by hand.

Re: No Place Like the O.Z.

azkadellia-and-her-long-coats

Come to the Dark Side. We have better outfits. Kathleen Robertson as Azkadellia flanked by her bad boys in the Sci-Fi Channel mini-series, “Tin Man”.

Why do I love the Tin Man mini-series? Two words, friends: Steampunk Oz. “Tin Man” is an original mini-series from the Sci-Fi Channel. The mini-series re-imagines L. Frank Baum’s Wizard of Oz as a much darker, more dystopian, yet ultimately hopeful tale. Briefly, the story follows our heroine, D.G., who is transported to the O.Z. (Outer Zone) and must discover her past in order to survive. Along the way, she is helped by Glitch, a former science advisor to the queen who had his brain removed as punishment, Wyatt Cain, a former Tin Man (Central City police officer), and Raw, a fearful, lion-like psychic.

From a costumer’s point of view, the character costumes created by Angus Strathie are delicious. I’m surprised that more fans haven’t re-created these costumes. If you have made a “Tin Man” costume, for heaven’s sake, post some pictures to the Net so the rest of us can enjoy them.

While I’ve written this post from sf/f costumer’s point of view, steampunk enthusiasts seeking inspiration will want to watch this movie repeatedly. “Tin Man” is probably as close as we will ever get to a steampunk documentary. The series covers what I consider to be the “steampunk era” (Victorian/Edwardian, 1910s, 1920s, 1930s) with a healthy dose of 21st century sensibility thrown in.  If you look closely at the Queen’s blue dress, for example, which she wears on her island prison, you will note that while the dress appears Edwardian, the corset which would normally not be seen  is actually part of her outerwear–a nod to the 21st century’s penchant for wearing underwear on the outside.

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Kathleen Robertson (Azkadellia) shows off three of her five outfits, all to die for.

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A photo of the black, feather-decorated dress Kathleen Robertson (Azkadellia) wears in the show.

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A close up of the same dress, showing the cool, multi-colored sheen of the shoulder feathers. The whole outfit reminds me of a raven. Notice the Queen in her blue dress in the background.  Her top looks like it may have been made from an Indian khameez.

In the O.Z., crime does pay–in the form of a fabulous wardrobe. Kathleen Robertson as the sorceress Azkadellia undoubtably has the best clothes in the film. We first see Azkadellia wearing her gold dress with the armored collar. She subsequently changes into her black coat dress, her black feathered dress,  and, for the big finale, her chail mail dress. She also has a wonderful Indian-inspired nightgown which I was unable to find good, clear photos of.

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A closeup of the black coat dress from commercial costuming company, Fan Chaos.

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Although Azkadellia’s outfit appears to be one piece, it is actually a long, black dress-like coat over a fitted peach bustier and black skirt.  The peach bustier suits Kathleen Robertson’s coloring. However, I think it could be changed to pale, true pink and still be recognizable.

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Azkadellia’s tattoos change into flying, bat-winged monkeys–how cool is that? Of course, that means many unneccessary shots of her heaving bosom–can we say “sweeps week”, boys and girls? Yes, we can.

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Photo of the “Tin Man” cast from Alexia Fast’s website. From left to right, Zooey Deschanel as D.G., Alexia Fast as Young Azkadellia, Alan Cumming as Glitch, Raoul Trujillo as Raw, and Neal McDonough as Wyatt Cain.

While Azkadellia’s costumes are probably the most complex in the entire film (leaving aside Raw’s makeup), there are plenty of other less work-intensive choices for the costumer. D.G.’s street clothes, as seen above, could easily be put together from purchased sources. If you wanted to wear something that is more obviously “Wizard of Oz”, try her waitress uniform pictured below. It’s a direct tip of the hat to the original Judy Garland’s Dorothy costume. D.G. wears her Other Side street clothes most of the time although she briefly changes into a red cocktail dress with a black sheer overlay when she infiltrates the Mystic Man’s nightclub. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a clear picture of that dress.

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D.G. in her diner waitress uniform (“Tin Man”). A sly wink to Judy Garland’s costume in the “Wizard of Oz”. I’d recommend wearing this outfit with red sneakers, just for fun.

Wyatt Cain’s (Neal McDonough’s) costume is the next easiest to do. Again, most of his clothes can be purchased, although you may have to specifically shop for Western or Victorian wear in order to do it. Cain’s vest and sidearm say “gunslinger”, but his overcoat and slouchy, fedora-like hat say “private eye”.  I wasn’t able to get a good look at his footwear, but my impression was that he was wearing heavy-duty walking shoes, not boots.

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Cain (Neal McDonough) in (mostly) full uniform, minus the hat. The leather vest really makes the outfit.

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Cain, minus his coat, showing off his striped, collar-less shirt. Cain’s colors are very muted–soft greens, olives, washed out blues, and browns.

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Alan Cumming as Glitch. The zipper headpiece really makes this costume and transforms it from “vagabond” to “steampunk”.

Glitch (Alan Cumming) has a very multi-layered costume that has been heavily distressed. He is actually wearing a 19th century frock coat that is very high cut–it stops at the rib cage as opposed to the waist. Immediately underneath his coat is an elaborately decorated red vest which we see clearly only once while he is drying off around the fire after jumping from the cliff. Under the vest is a long-sleeved white shirt and under that is a red and black or possibly red and navy striped undershirt. If you are planning to re-create Glitch’s look, I highly recommend making all the layers very light weight as this costume can get hot quickly.

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Don’t lose your head. Glitch’s outfit and head from a publicity display for “Tin Man” (Flickr). You can just see the edge of Glitch’s vest peaking out from underneath his coat.

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Raoul Trujillo as Raw and Zooey Deschanel as D.G. Sci-Fi Channel photo by Art Streiber. Notice Raw’s furry feet.

Next to Azkadellia’s corsets, Raw’s costume requires the most technical skill because of the makeup and prothesises involved. The actual clothing–furry vest and knee breeches–is not that difficult and you can get a good look at it in the full cast photo above. Notice that in the cast photo he is wearing shoes while the above two-shot with D.G. shows his feet.

The great thing about “Tin Man” is that you have option of doing either “alternate versions” of the main cast or re-creating the striking costumes of the supporting characters. For example, we see Az, D.G., and their mother briefly in a flashback scene with the girls’ tutor.  Those outfits would be a great family group costume to re-create.

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Young Azkadellia (Alexia Fast), the queen, and young D.G.  Part of the queen’s skirt is made of bronze sequinned fabric. I really like young Az’s dress, but young D.G. also has an attractive gown. Photo from Alexia Fast’s website.

Azkadellia’s long coats–her imperial troops–would make another good group costume. The soldiers’ most striking uniform element is their long leather dusters with red/silver ornamentation and occasional bits of body armor. The overall effect is very Nazi storm trooper. The high mandarin collars appear to be part of the coat rather than a separate shirt. Underneath, as far as I can tell, they are wearing sleeveless black T-shirts, black pants, and black combat boots.  I wasn’t able to find a good still showing the insignia, but I would suggest taking a look at the sets in Az’s tower as I think the circle shape is being replicated on some of the screens.

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Some men bring flowers, others bring lockets. From left to right, Azkadellia, her chief hench guy, Zero (Callum Keith Rennie), and her secretary (actor unknown).  I thought initially that her secretary was wearing a variation of the longcoat uniform, but he’s actually wearing a variation of Glitch’s costume–high cut frock coat with a vest and shirt underneath. The coat is leather, but the outfit appears to be very similar to Glitch’s.

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Our heroes are shocked to discover just how good they look in black leather and begin to reconsider joining the imperial guard. Another view of the longcoat uniform.

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Callum Keith Rennie as Zero in all his evil-y goodness. Rennie plays villains so often these days that most people forget he played good guy detective Stanley Kowalski in the television series “Due South”. Notice the half-armor he sports. The armor seems to be largely ceremonial, but Zero does use it to defend himself when he and Cain throw down.

For a colorful and memorable group costume, I would suggest the “Tin Man” Munchkins. Although they only appear briefly at the beginning of the series, the Munchkins are very original and interesting looking. The body paint would take time, but the clothes themselves are relatively simple and have an overall “American Indian” motif.

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D.G. surrounded by Munchkin resistance fighters of the Eastern Guild (“Tin Man”). Notice the Kiowa-style feather harnesses. The buckskin pants and sleeveless shirts wouldn’t be hard to replicate.

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Munchkin leaders interrogate D.G. whom they think is a spy (“Tin Man”). Notice the striking face paint and chest armor.

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“Well, if it isn’t the great and terrible blah, blah, blah himself.” Richard Dreyfus as the Mystic Man (“Tin Man”) flanked by his lovely assistants. Although the dancers have a great number, this was the only still I could find that showed their outfits. The “panniers” they’re wearing are actually tamborines they use to beat out a drumroll for the Mystic Man’s entrance.

As a dancer, I was struck by the Art Deco flamenco costumes worn by the Mystic Man’s assistants in the Central City nightclub D.G. goes to. This would be another neat group costume to do for a duo or a trio.  The Mystic Man is dressed like a very formal 19th century stage magician. He wears an evening tuxedo with a white vest and white pin-tucked shirt. One hand is bound up in a black pouch. I’m still not sure what that is supposed to symbolize. Over the top of his tux, he wears a Chinese robe and a Turkish smoking cap.

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Richard Dreyfus as the Mystic Man (“Tin Man”) showing off his fantastic Chinese robe. I wants it, precious, yes, I do.  Folkwear has a great pattern for this robe (“Chinese Jacket”). I got this photo from the Dye Dept , the Canadian company that did some of the distress work for the series. If you go to their website and look under “textile arts, dyeing, and costume breakdown”, you will see a photo of Glitch’s coat which they also worked over.

Re: Major Cover-Up

One of the first questions prospective Middle Eastern dance students ask me is “do I have to show my belly?” The answer is no, there are a number of long tunics that you can wear. In fact, I often recommend hip-length or ankle-length tunics to my beginning dancers for several reasons. They are easy to make, relatively cheap, and they camouflage the fact that the dancer doesn’t have more expensive and harder to make items like a costume bra.
Tunics come in a variety of styles. The easiest one to make is the unfitted beladi dress. This is two lengths of rectangular fabric sewn together with an opening at the top for your head. The sides can be left open at which point it becomes more like a medieval tabard or they can be closed down the sides with armholes. The side from the ankle to the mid-thigh or the just below the hipbone can be left open for ease of motion. You can add sleeves or leave it sleeve-less.

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From the Artemis Imports website, dancer Melanie models a dress made from two veils trimmed with coins. This is the glitzier, nightclub version of a beladi dress.

To sew up a beladi dress very quickly, use a long rectangular veil or veils. Depending on your height, you may be able to get away with using just one 108 inch long veil. Otherwise, use two. This will produce a short-sleeved dress. Use a third large veil or two smaller ones for sleeves. If you would prefer a shorter (hip-length) tunic, use smaller (36 inch long) rectangular veils.

The nice thing about a beladi dress is that it can be made more cabaret or more ethnic-looking by the kind of fabric used and by adding other costume pieces. Opaque fabric in solid colors, stripes, and paisleys is more ethnic. Anything sparkly or see-through is more cabaret. Harem pants, a coined hip belt, and painted-on facial tattoos will make the dress more tribal/ethnic looking. High-heeled dance shoes, bare legs, a beaded hip belt, and matching head band will give a more cabaret/showgirl feel.

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Kalilah of the Calgary, Alberta troupe, “Daughters of the Nile”, poses in her Saudi thobe at Global Fest 2008 (Flickr).

In America, the term “thobe” or “Saudi thobe” refers to a loose, T-shaped kaftan with a heavily decorated front panel. In the Middle East, “thobe” means the high-necked, long-sleeved robes worn by both men and women. A Saudi-style thobe is a “thobe nashaal” or “big robe”.  You can make your own thobe, but most dancers buy one from Middle Eastern dance suppliers.  Thobes usually run in the $100-150 dollar range depending on the material that they are made from and the amount of decoration that they have.

A thobe can be left loose or it can belted (worn with a shawl, hip scarf, or costume hip girdle) and worn as a loose beladi dress. The sleeves of a thobe are large and open so you will need to wear a leotard or other top underneath.

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An Egyptian-style dance dress made from a velvet evening gown by Dina Lydia, otherwise known as Dina the Costume Goddess. I highly recommend her site which is full of good tips and great pictures.

In Egypt, night club dancers favor what are essentially evening or cocktail dresses with strategic cut outs and beading at the bust and hipbone line.  Dance dresses can cost anywhere from $200-600, depending on the style and designer. However, you can easily make a similar dance outfit yourself by getting ahold of a second-hand evening gown and glitzing it up.

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A splendid example of a traditional Ghawazee coat modeled by dancer Tamara and posted to Tribe.net.  Ghawazee coats are usually worn over a chemise as seen here. However, there are many variations on this garment.

A Ghawazee coat is a fitted tunic that can come either to the hip or to the ankle. It is worn over a long-sleeved undertunic and can be cut either over the bust or under the bust. The under the bust style is usually worn with a decorated, costume bra. Because a Ghawazee coat is fitted, I highly recommend making a muslin–a test garment–first before cutting into your good fabric.